Showing posts with label tradition. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tradition. Show all posts

Friday, January 1, 2016

Kocsonya - aspic


Not even sure if this food is still eaten nowadays that often, but it was typical winter food back in my childhood. It was something made by grandparents, I don't remember even my parents ever making it when I was a kid, but they are doing it now :).
The reason why it is only prepared during the coldest months of the winter is the cold that makes it jelly without a fridge, and because it was the season when the pigs reached their full size and were butchered to provide the families with meat just in time before the holidays.
I wanted to make it as a surprise appetizer for New Year's Eve, but not just some appetizer... a real, traditional, Hungarian appetizer. And.. I spiced up the presentation a bit by serving it in transparent plastic cups, adding small stripes of carrot, parsnip and parsley leaves.

And here it comes.. 
I bought beef shanks instead of the traditionally used pork feet, and the reason was kinda pathetic: I visited a mainly Arabic store instead of an Asian..
It actually turned out to be a really good choice, the smell was significantly better while cooking, imho, and the end result did not suffer a bit, in contrary.
You might find all sorts of recipes using gelatin.. While I believe that is perfectly acceptable way to spice up one's appetizer offering, don't be fooled: it has nothing to do with the traditional aspic, which definitely didn't have any other gelatin than the one from the boiled bones.

Ingredients (2.5 - 3 quarts including the bones)
3 pounds, 1.5 kg beef shanks
1 whole garlic head
whole black pepper
salt 
optional: small pinch of caraway seeds
3 carrots
1 small celery root
1 parsnip
1/2 bunch of Italian parsley
4-5 pink peppers

Serving
soup plates
powder paprika
lemon

Prepare a 6 quart pot, to make sure it comfortable fits your bones and veggies.
Add the bones, add enough water to fully cover the bones and bit extra, and turn on the heat at higher power at the beginning, but as it bubbles reduce it to low-medium, it was the power 4 out of 9 on my induction cook.
Add a humpy tsp of salt, add about 25 pieces of whole black pepper, and add the cleaned garlic cloves.

Let it boil for about 15-20 minutes, and remove any foam that forms on top. Repeat as many time needed, and make sure you remove the foam carefully enough not to mix it back in the juice.

The patience game starts, and you'll have the juice boil for 5-6 hours. 
Even at its very low boiling point the aspic needs to be checked regularly, any foam removed, and evaporated water refilled. I always add boiling water not cold, just 'cause I was told it make a meat soup clearer :).
Mine boiled for about 7 before I added the veggies, and boiled it again for 30-35 minutes until the veggies cooked. 
Remove the veggies as soon as they are soft, but still crunchy. For a traditional aspic leave the veggies out from your serving, but if you like them just put them in the plates.
I discarded all the bones and almost all the cartilage except small bites. Doggie was rather happy about my decision :).
Normally you'd place the skin and whatever falls off from the bones in plates and poor the juice over.
If you wanted a "high en" aspic, you'd also add some beef tail with its soft meat, and place the meat in the plates.
Pour the juice over the meat, let it cool overnight at room, or some colder temperature. 
By the time is cooled to room temperature it should have already a softish, but jelly consistency.
When fully cooled place them in the fridge, and let it for about 4 hours.
Serve with fresh toast, lemon and powder paprika.

Bonn appétit!

Friday, February 7, 2014

Laskiaispulla - Semla



Uhh ohh... Baking season started!
Not with things I expected though but with a load of Finnish goodies, again.
This is a new one, never tried before, but I started baking with confidence because it is based on the pulla dough, my absolute favorite, so it can't go wrong, right?
I usually don't like baking big round buns, I'm always worried they will be raw in the inside, but I can now state that if I don't let the dough over-rise it should be fine.
I didn't ever eat laskiaispulla in Finland, maybe it was a mistake, maybe wasn't, because these turned out gorgeous and made a good entree :).
The soft bun-crumb wrapped in little bit crunchy crust, with a generous teaspoon of raspberry jam in the middle, accompanied with the airy whipped cream...  Hmmmm....

Ingredients
half portion pulla dough, makes about 16 buns

Filling
500 ml, (one pint) heavy whipping cream, 
1 tbsp  sugar 

strawberry jam (in the original version)
almond cream (marzipan cream)

Brushing/shine
1 egg + 1 (or two) tbsp water

I confess, I omit both traditional fillings like the almond cream and strawberry jam (except the cream, of course) and replace it with:
raspberry jam for a bit more sour taste, my definite favorite

Prepare the dough. After it has risen nicely, start picking off small portions, about 50 g/ball.
Roll them well to make a smooth round surface.

Preheat the oven to 425F, 225 C.
Place them on a tray covered with parchment paper, brush them with egg wash, and let them sit for another 15-20 minutes.


Brush them lightly again before putting them in the oven for about 12 minutes.
Remove them from the oven and let them cool completely.
Until they are cooling whip the heavy whipping cream with a tbsp sugar.
Cut the top, scoop a small hole in the middle of the bun, scoop a tsp of jam in the hole, covered the while surface of the but with about 1 cm whipped cream., place back the top which was cut at the beginning, and sprinkle the buns generously with castor sugar.

Enjoy!

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Csöröge - "rattling" donut


This time I wanted to make the csöröge, or forgácsfánk, for the children's carnival in the House of Hungary.
This is the REAL csöröge, without yeast, and the easiest way is to go to Varga Gábor's recipe and try it out. Well, mine is almost as his recipe, (I don't have my Grandma's and I use this one as it works very well), but it is only almost his recipe because we've always made it with a bit of rum, or rum essence.
Today I missed to add the rum, well, I could listen to my daughters endless complains.. and I deserved it, agree... I sprinkled them in exchange with a tiny bit of cinnamon while rolling out, but it just generated even more complains.. See, hard work and good intention always pays off :D.

It is very easy to make and, for those who don't speak Hungarian, here is the English version. I had to steel temporarily Gabor's picture because, in the heat of frying the csöröge and the fánk for the kids, I forgot to take any picture of the ready pastries.. Shame, shame..
We had double portion and they looked at least as good as these ones, if not better (yeah, I know, I'm very modest :D), but next time..

Ingredients
250 g pastry flour
150 gr sour cream
50 gr butter
1-2 tsp icing sugar (depending how sweet you like it, it's gonna be sprinkled with icing sugar as well)
1 pinch salt
3 egg yolks
1 tsp rum (essence)
(optionally you can also add a bit of grated lemon peel or cinnamon) 

~ 1 l sun flour oil for frying

Serving
icing sugar
jams (apricot, raspberry, anything you like, basically) 

In a bowl mix the flour with the salt, then crumble it with the butter. Start mixing in the rum, egg yolks, the sour cream and the icing sugar.
Knead it very well together, not just little bit, it has to be a sooth dough. If it is smooth enough, when you fry them it will kinda form layers like a puff pastry, though not so nicely separated.
The dough should be kinda "hard", though I still consider it quite soft compared to a home made pasta dough (now see, that IS hard). Anyway, should be hard enough to be very easy to roll out with little flouring. If it sticks to the table you might want to work in some more flour, but it shouldn't be needed.
Put some oil to heat, quite hot like you would make French fries.
Roll out the dough very thin, maybe 3 mm thick, maximum.
Cover some plates with kitchen paper.

In the hot oil fry the csöröge for just ~30-40 seconds each side.
They should be light golden brown, not too well fried because they are very thin. If you fry them for too long they will become dry and hard.

Remove the ready csöröge to the plates, the paper will absorb the excess oil.
Sprinkle with icing sugar while still warm, serve as is, fresh, or with apricot or raspberry jam, and a tea, or better infusion. Yummii.